Boy Smells began as an experimental candle-making project in a Los Angeles kitchen, and within a decade, it has reshaped how fragrance and personal care intersect with gender expression. Founded in 2016 by Matthew Herman and David Kien, real-life partners and former fashion professionals, the brand originally explored the space between masculine and feminine aesthetics. Now stocked in over 750 retail locations across 35 countries, Boy Smells has become one of the most influential queer-owned fragrance labels in modern beauty.
Origins and Ethos: The Birth of “Genderful” Fragrance
As Herman said, “Being able to tap into your masculinity and your femininity simultaneously makes you a more well-rounded, fully realized individual. And I think that there’s power on both sides of that spectrum.”
The first products, hand-poured candles infused with natural oils and a coconut–beeswax blend, included cult hits like Cinderose (rose + smoke) and Gardener (tomato vine + honeysuckle) that reimagined domestic intimacy. The brand’s signature design, minimalist black jars, pink labels, and cheeky names, quickly became emblematic of its tactile, inclusive message.
Milestones and Timeline
- 2015–2016: Boy Smells launches candles from the founders’ Los Angeles kitchen, selling exclusively online.
2017: Brand introduces its first clothing line, Unmentionables, a minimalist underwear range designed for all genders. - 2019–2020: DTC growth surges with influencer buzz and collaborations; candles reach “it object” status across social media.
- 2021: Boy Smells expands into fine fragrance, debuting perfume line Cologne de Parfum crafted by perfumer Jérôme Epinette (Byredo, Ariana Grande). Hits include Tantrum, Hinoki Fantasies, and viral collaboration Slow Burn with Grammy‑winning artist Kacey Musgraves.
- 2022: Distribution deal with Sephora U.S. and Space NK UK; candles and perfumes reach 300 U.S. stores.
- 2024: Brand appoints former Coach and J.Crew executive David Duplantis as CEO to steer global expansion.
- 2025: Launch of Boy Smells 2.0, its rebrand introducing redesigned bottles and a retail pop-up in New York’s Elizabeth Street.
How It Works: From Candles to Community
Boy Smells operates on a hybrid DTC + wholesale business model. Roughly 55% of sales come through retail partners like Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, and Sephora, while e‑commerce drives customer engagement through subscription candle drops and limited‑edition fragrance drops. By positioning its products as “moments of daily ritual,” the brand leverages sensory touchpoints that transcend typical fragrance marketing.
Each scent is formulated, poured, and labeled in Los Angeles using proprietary wax blends, natural oils, and phthalate‑free ingredients. Product packaging remains recyclable, and the company frequently collaborates with queer creators to give a platform to LGBTQ+ narratives within luxury beauty.
Brand Expansion and Design Evolution
After years of meteoric rise, Boy Smells faced headwinds in 2024. As sales slowed, management initiated a comprehensive rebrand — dubbed Boy Smells 2.0 — that reduced price points and updated packaging with simpler lavender‑hued bottles. The change divided long‑time fans, with some decrying what they called “the Sephorafication of a cult brand”.
Retail Expansion and Collaborations
Boy Smells’ retail presence continues to accelerate. As of 2025, the company counts boutiques and counters in 35 countries across six continents. The brand’s fragrances and body products now appear in concept stores from Los Angeles to Tokyo.
Highlights include:
- 2021 – 2023: Collaborations with Kacey Musgraves, Magnolia Bakery, and Robertet Group on exclusive scents.
- 2024: Flagship pop‑ups in London and Paris featuring interactive “Scent Chambers.”
- 2025: NYC pop‑up showcasing Boy Smells 2.0 visual identity and new “lavender” brand architecture.
Business Performance and Ownership
While Boy Smells remains independent and entrepreneur-led by Herman and Kien, the brand has attracted private equity interest due to its 450% sales spike since 2019 and growing wholesale dominance. Discussions of future investment are ongoing, but no formal acquisition has been announced. The company continues to focus on profitability through streamlined product lines and selective partnerships.
Future Outlook
Looking ahead, Boy Smells is evolving from a cult fragrance brand into a comprehensive lifestyle label, extending its “genderful” ethos into home, body, apparel, and skincare.
Key initiatives for 2026 and beyond include:
- International expansion in Asia and the Middle East with localized fragrances inspired by regional botanicals.
- Sustainability investments, including refillable candle jars and enhanced candle‑to‑perfume recycling programs.
- Celebrity and designer collaborations, maintaining ties with pop culture while amplifying queer creative voices.
Despite mixed reactions to its rebrand, Boy Smells’ trajectory remains upward, driven by authenticity, affordability, and a refusal to downplay its LGBTQ+ roots. Its founders still appear in campaigns, reinforcing the brand’s unapologetic message.
