Richemont International SA, the parent company of Van Cleef & Arpels, ignited a major legal battle in February 2025, alleging that Silversmiths Inc. is counterfeiting and infringing upon the iconic Alhambra quatrefoil jewelry design. The case, filed in federal court in New Jersey (Case No. 2:25-cv-01204), marks one of the most aggressive moves by a luxury conglomerate in the ongoing crackdown against designer superfakes in the U.S. market.
The Alhambra Motif
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection, introduced in the late 1960s, features a distinctive clover-shaped motif, beaded with metalwork and solid at its center. Richemont claims this trade dress is instantly recognizable and is one of the world’s most sought-after status symbols in luxury jewelry. As the company notes in its court filings, Van Cleef has made widespread and exclusive use of the iconic Alhambra trade dress for decades, investing a considerable amount of time, effort, and money advertising and promoting their jewelry and watch products bearing the trade dress and has enjoyed enormous success selling such products in the U.S. and around the world.
Allegations of Deliberate Counterfeiting and Infringement
The lawsuit alleges that Silversmiths Inc., based in New Jersey, has been manufacturing and distributing jewelry that closely mimics the distinctive quatrefoil-shaped design of the Alhambra collection, complete with beaded borders and nearly identical silhouettes. Richemont claims that Silversmiths actively displayed, promoted, and sold these imitations through its website and at jewelry trade shows across major cities, including New York City, Miami, and Las Vegas, from as early as 2020. The contested pieces were marketed in sterling silver and gold, with prices ranging from $40 to $700, a fraction of the cost of authentic Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.
The complaint further details how Richemont issued multiple cease-and-desist letters, starting in March 2020, and again in December 2023 and April 2024, yet Silversmiths Inc. allegedly ignored all warnings and continued unauthorized sales. The lawsuit asserts that Silversmiths’ actions constitute intentional, fraudulent, malicious, willful, and wanton trademark counterfeiting, creating a likelihood of consumer confusion and harming the brand’s reputation.
Broader Impact
This lawsuit is emblematic of the rising threat posed by luxury counterfeits and superfakes. As demand for the Alhambra design has soared, media outlets call it 2024’s jewelry grail, the market for high-quality knockoffs and lookalikes has intensified. The case is notable for Richemont’s strategy of targeting not just online sellers but wholesale providers and trade show vendors who fuel the flow of copycat goods into U.S. retail channels.
Injunctive Relief and Heavy Damages
Richemont seeks a permanent injunction to halt the sale of any infringing jewelry and asks the court to order the destruction of all counterfeit goods. It is also pursuing statutory damages up to $2 million per counterfeit mark per type of goods sold, along with disgorgement of profits and legal costs. This approach, common in luxury brand protection, aims not only to punish counterfeiters, but also to deter others and reaffirm the validity of luxury design trademarks in the U.S. consumer market.
Industry Precedent and Global Trends
The Van Cleef & Arpels vs. Silversmiths Inc suit may set legal precedent for how courts interpret design-driven trade dress rights, especially as similar cases, including actions involving Cartier and competitive disputes with other brands, continue to unfold. The broader industry is watching closely, particularly given the surge in U.S. Customs seizures of Van Cleef fakes, topping thousands of pieces and millions in value in 2025 alone.
What’s Next?
As counterfeit enforcement rises alongside the luxury jewelry boom, legal observers expect more lawsuits, customs actions, and closer public-private collaboration to protect intellectual property in fashion. For buyers, the case is a clear reminder: when investing in celebrated high jewelry like the Alhambra, provenance is essential, and the stakes for fakes are higher than ever.
