On November 5, 2025, Olivier Rousteing had stepped down as creative director of Balmain after an influential 14-year tenure. The move ends one of the longest and most high-profile creative directorships in contemporary fashion, with Balmain confirming the split was mutual and a new creative team is being assembled for future seasons.
Setting the Stage: A Cultural Revolution at Balmain
Rousteing’s rise began in 2011, when he was named creative director at just 25 years old—becoming both the youngest designer to lead a historic Paris house since Yves Saint Laurent at Dior and the first Black creative director to helm a major French brand across all categories. He inherited a house with a rich, if faded, heritage, and—over the next decade and a half—utterly transformed it.
Milestones: Modernizing and Expanding the Balmain Empire
Major highlights of the Rousteing era include:
- Reviving Couture: After an absence of 14 years, Balmain returned to the couture calendar in 2019 under Rousteing. His debut collection made headlines for its bold, Paris is my inspiration ethos, dramatic silhouettes, and decadent embellishments.
- Building the #BalmainArmy: Rousteing coined the term that would become synonymous with celebrity and influencer endorsement. His designs regularly graced Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Gigi Hadid, firmly aligning the brand with global pop culture.
- Global Expansion: He spearheaded Balmain’s aggressive retail growth, opening its first stores outside Paris, overseeing licensing deals, and being pivotal in Mayhoola for Investments.
- Beauty and Collaborations: Rousteing launched Balmain Beauty and extensive accessories lines, culminating in the 2023 partnership with Estée Lauder and a co-designed collection with Beyoncé.
- Historic H&M Collaboration: The 2015 “Balmain x H&M” launch saw fans camping overnight and product sellouts within hours, cementing high-low collaborations as a business model.
Challenges, Mishaps, and Cultural Tensions
In 2021, Rousteing faced a deeply personal and painful challenge when he suffered severe burns at his home—an experience he later revealed publicly. The trauma became a catalyst for one of his most powerful creative responses: the Spring 2022 bandage dress collection, a symbolic exploration of healing, vulnerability, and resilience. His openness about recovery and transformation resonated across the fashion world, blending raw emotion with artistry.
Despite his widespread popularity and strong social media following, Rousteing’s tenure at Balmain was not without controversy. Critics often questioned the brand’s heavy reliance on digital influence, celebrity partnerships, and the tension between maintaining Balmain’s heritage and embracing a hyper-modern, accessible aesthetic. Some industry insiders argued that his emphasis on visibility and branding risked overshadowing the craftsmanship at the heart of haute couture.
As one of the few Black creative directors in the global luxury industry, Rousteing also carried the weight of representation. He often spoke candidly about the emotional and professional pressures of being a symbol for inclusivity in a space still grappling with diversity. Following the passing of Virgil Abloh, he reflected on this responsibility, noting that leadership in fashion is not defined by age or background but by courage and authenticity. His journey, marked by both triumph and tension, reshaped what it means to lead with purpose in modern luxury.
Company Legacy: What Rousteing Leaves Behind
Under Rousteing, Balmain’s turnover multiplied sevenfold in under a decade, with digital engagement climbing to unprecedented heights. He embedded inclusivity, pop culture, and modernity as core parts of Balmain’s DNA, redefining what it means to be a luxury brand.
As he said in his farewell statement, “I am deeply proud of all that I’ve accomplished and profoundly grateful to my exceptional team at Balmain, my chosen family, in a place that has been my home for the past 14 years.”
The Path Forward for Balmain—and Rousteing
With no immediate successor named, the brand faces a delicate transition. Fashion industry insiders are eager to see whether Balmain will continue its ultra-modern, pop-culture-infused trajectory or recalibrate under a new vision.
Rousteing, only 40 years old, departs with significant influence, multiple industry honors, and an open road for future ventures in fashion or beyond.
