Susie Cave, founder and creative director of The Vampire's Wife, announced the immediate cessation of trading for her beloved brand via email on Tuesday, May 21, 2024. This unexpected news marked the end of a decade-long journey for the British label known for its distinctive blend of subversive femininity and vintage-inspired glamour.
Founded in 2014 by Susie Cave, a former model, and wife of rock musician Nick Cave, The Vampire's Wife quickly rose to prominence. The brand's name, intriguingly borrowed from an unfinished novel by Nick Cave, encapsulated the mysterious and alluring essence that would come to define its creations. The fashion label's early success was tragically intertwined with personal loss; following the death of Susie and Nick's 15-year-old son Arthur in 2015, Susie found solace and purpose in her work. Despite her initial despair, a request from model Daisy Lowe for a custom dress reignited Susie's passion, leading to a resurgence in her creative output.
The Vampire's Wife became synonymous with high-profile events and red carpet appearances, adored by celebrities and royalty alike. The Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, was frequently seen in The Vampire's Wife designs, including a memorable emerald gown worn during a 2021 visit to Dublin. Other notable fans included Florence Welch, Kate Moss, and Rachel Weisz, who helped cement the label's status as a cult favorite.
However, despite its popularity and a period of positive growth, The Vampire's Wife could not withstand the economic turbulence that followed the COVID-19 pandemic. The brand's financial woes were exacerbated by a winding-up petition issued by the U.K. Revenue and Customs due to outstanding debts accrued during the pandemic. The company's debt had ballooned as consumers tightened their belts, opting to save rather than splurge on luxury items like the brand's signature sparkly dresses and going-out skirts.
In a heartfelt statement on the brand's website, Susie Cave attributed the closure to "factors beyond our control," highlighting the dramatic implications of upheaval in the wholesale market. The pandemic's impact on consumer behavior, coupled with HMRC's rejection of requests for a payment plan, left the company with no viable path forward. The latest filings revealed significant taxation and social security liabilities, which had surged from £43,106 in 2020 to £543,930 by the end of 2022.
The Vampire's Wife's struggles reflect broader challenges independent fashion brands face in today's volatile retail and wholesale market. The label's reliance on event dressing, a sector hit hard by the pandemic, and its failure to diversify into everyday wear contributed to its downfall. As mentioned on the now-closed website, "Despite a period of positive growth and sales, the upheaval in the wholesale market has had dramatic implications for the brand...Therefore, it announces that it has sadly decided to cease trading with immediate effect."
"There will be a final, physical sale...[we] would like to express...heartfelt thanks to ll clients, partners and those who have worn the brand these last ten years." Despite these setbacks, The Vampire's Wife leaves a legacy of elegance and resilience. Its designs, characterized by luxurious fabrics and timeless silhouettes, offered a sense of escapism and beauty during some of Susie Cave's darkest moments. As she once remarked, "When you lose a child, nothing will take away the pain, not ever. But I did realize if I could focus on something outside of what had happened... then that might be an important thing."
