Victoria’s Secret Marketing: Before & After Controversy

Initially known for its glamorous and exclusive image, Victoria's Secret dominated the lingerie market through its captivating marketing strategies, which often featured supermodels in elaborate fashion shows. This pervasive aura of exclusivity and fantasy carved a lucrative niche. However, this marketing ploy, fixating primarily on ultra-thin models, began drawing criticism in the late 2010s for promoting unrealistic beauty standards and lacking size inclusivity.

The pivotal moment came in November 2018 when Ed Razek, then-chief marketing officer for L Brands, made a controversial statement to Vogue excluding "transsexuals" from runway shows. This not only ignited backlash for its exclusionary stance towards the transgender community but also reignited criticism over the brand’s overall inclusivity, particularly in terms of body diversity. Victoria's Secret began an intensive rebranding journey in response to mounting pressure and plummeting public perception.

This controversy spurred a strategic overhaul focusing on a more inclusive and feminist image. Despite these efforts, the company experienced declining sales, prompting another pivot back to its core theme of "sexiness." This case study outlines the marketing strategies employed by Victoria's Secret before and after the controversy, highlighting the brand's efforts to navigate evolving market dynamics and societal expectation

Victoria's Secret Controversies and Rebranding Efforts (2018 - 2024)

1. November 2018: Ed Razek, then-chief marketing officer for L Brands, faces backlash after stating that he did not think "transsexuals" should be included in Victoria's Secret runway shows. This comment sparks widespread criticism for lack of inclusivity, damaging the brand's public image. 2019
2. March 2019: Activist shareholder Barington Capital sends a letter to Les Wexner, outlining recommendations for improving growth, including updating the brand's "tone-deaf" image. Barington also criticizes the lack of diversity on the board of directors. August 2019: Victoria's Secret hires its first openly transgender model, Brazilian model Valentina Sampaio, signaling early steps towards inclusivity and diversity. November 21, 2019: The company announces the official cancellation of its annual runway fashion show, citing that it no longer significantly impacted sales. 2020
3. Continued adjustments: The brand takes more conscious steps toward rebranding, focusing on more body-inclusive campaigns and attempting to repair its public image. 2021
4. Formation of the VS Collective: Victoria’s Secret introduces “VS Collective,” a group of diverse women celebrated for their backgrounds, interests, and passions, to appear in marketing campaigns. 2022
5. New Executive Team: A significant overhaul in leadership sees the appointment of an entirely new executive team with a board of directors dominated by women. 2023
6. April 2023: Victoria’s Secret announces a comeback for its fashion show in Fall 2023. This relaunch aims to combine nostalgic elements like glamour and runway shows with a refreshed inclusive image. October 2023: Continuous controversies surface, including ties to Jeffrey Epstein and criticisms of a misogynistic culture, which attract significant public and media scrutiny. 2024
7. Spring 2024: A promotional video posted on Instagram reveals that the fashion show would reflect the brand’s modern identity while retaining its trademark glitz, runway, and musical performances. Victoria’s Secret plans to open about 15 new stores in North America, focusing mainly on off-mall locations and closing 35 stores due to consolidation. The brand continues to feature models of various ethnicities, body types, and backgrounds in its marketing campaigns to embrace diversity and inclusivity better.

Pre 2018: Victoria's Secret Marketing Strategy Before Controversy

1. Promotion and High-Profile Advertising
   • Advertising Campaigns: Victoria's Secret leveraged high-profile advertising campaigns featuring its iconic angels and models to build brand recognition.
   • Multi-Platform Presence: Advertisements were showcased across various platforms to maximize reach.
2. Customer Segmentation
   • Target Audience: The brand focused on affluent young professionals and style-conscious individuals.
   • Product Positioning: Emphasized luxury and exclusivity to appeal to its target market.
3. Iconic Fashion Shows
   • Annual Event: The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show was an iconic part of the brand, first launched in 1995.
   • Viewership: These shows were widely watched and attracted significant media attention.
4. Product Innovation
   • Miracle Bra and Body by Victoria: Introduced successful products such as the heavily padded Miracle Bra and the Body by Victoria line, which significantly boosted sales.
5. Angels and Fantasy Bras
   • Brand Ambassadors: The concept of "Angels" (launched with the "Angels" underwear collection) became integral to the brand, with models wearing extravagant Fantasy Bras during fashion shows.
6. European Market Inspiration
   • Affordable Luxury: Under Les Wexner's leadership, Victoria's Secret was modeled after European upscale brands like La Perla, offering luxurious-looking lingerie at affordable prices.

Controversies and Consumer Backlash

Victoria’s Secret began facing significant backlash around the 2019. The brand's portrayal of women heavily leaned towards the male gaze, often sexualizing rather than empowering its models, which grew increasingly unpopular as societal norms evolved. Movements promoting body positivity and inclusivity, such as those pioneered by brands like Aerie and Savage x Fenty, exposed Victoria's Secret's dated and exclusive imagery. This led to declining sales and a damaged brand reputation hitting a staggering billion-dollar loss.

In response to mounting criticism and declining sales, Victoria's Secret initiated a substantial rebranding effort in 2021. The brand introduced a new executive team and board of directors dominated by women, signaling a shift towards inclusivity. In addition, the "VS Collective" was launched, featuring a diverse group of women known for their unique backgrounds, interests, and passions, as opposed to the typical supermodel image.

 2019-2024: Victoria's Secret Strategic Rebranding After Controversy

1. Rebranding and Inclusivity
   • Feminist and Inclusive Image: After facing backlash for lack of diversity and inclusivity, Victoria's Secret initiated a rebranding effort aimed at portraying itself as more feminist and inclusive.
   • VS Collective: Launched a collective featuring women from varied backgrounds and interests to better represent a broader demographic.
2. Executive Changes
   • New Leadership: Introduced an entirely new executive team and a newly formed board of directors predominantly composed of women, indicating a shift towards a more inclusive and diverse leadership structure.
3. Product and Image Overhaul
   • Fashion Show Update: Released "The Tour '23," a documentary that premiered in September 2023 on Prime Video, and planned a live fashion event and movie to relaunch the Victoria's Secret fashion show in the fall of 2024.
   • Diverse Models: Hired more body-inclusive models and included LGBTQ and transgender models as part of their rebranding efforts.
4. Backlash Handling
   • Conflict with Ed Razek: Ed Razek’s resignation following controversial remarks about transgender models. The brand faced further backlash due to connections with Jeffrey Epstein and an entrenched culture of misogyny and sexual misconduct.
   • Public Apologies and Changes: Reacted to public criticism with official apologies and promised reforms to improve brand image.
5. Business Strategy Adjustments
   • Return to "Sexiness": Despite the rebranding efforts, the brand faced declining sales. In response, Victoria's Secret announced a strategic pivot back to its core value of "sexiness," led by statements from Greg Unis.
6. Growth Strategy
   • Core Strengthening and Expansion: Focused on strengthening their core offerings, boosting growth, and making foundational changes to establish Victoria's Secret as the global leader in intimate clothing.

Future Plans

From a commercial perspective, Victoria's Secret has had an impressive financial trajectory. The company reported net sales of approximately $6.182 billion for the 53-week fiscal year of 2023, a slight decline from $6.344 billion in the 52-week fiscal year of 2022. Despite this minor dip, the company's most lucrative year was 2016. As of 2024, Victoria's Secret holds an estimated 30.4% share of the Lingerie Stores industry revenue, indicative of its strong influence and extensive market reach.

Looking ahead, Victoria's Secret's strategic plans for 2024 include opening approximately 15 new stores in North America, primarily in off-mall locations, while closing around 35 stores due to the consolidation of Victoria’s Secret and PINK stores. This move aims to maximize visibility and accessibility for its target audience.

Key Takeaways

Victoria's Secret's journey from market dominance to a billion-dollar loss and subsequent rebranding offers several key takeaways for other businesses:

1. Authenticity is Key: Brands must ensure that rebranding efforts are deeply rooted in genuine values and consistently reflected across all marketing platforms.
2. Adapt to Changing Norms: It is critical to stay ahead of societal shifts and evolving consumer values. Brands must be proactive rather than reactive in embracing inclusivity and body positivity.
3. Engage and Listen to Consumers: Active engagement on platforms where consumers interact and attentive customer feedback loops can significantly enhance brand loyalty and perception.
4. Diversify Marketing Strategies: Employing a range of marketing channels—from high-profile campaigns and social media engagement to in-store events and comprehensive email marketing—can maintain and grow customer bases.

Victoria's Secret’s marketing strategy has transformed from its initial focus on exclusive, sex appeal-driven advertising to a more inclusive and diverse brand image. While the initial changes sought to address evolving market and societal expectations, recent pivots suggest a struggle to balance these efforts with economic performance and brand identity. The future path of Victoria’s Secret will likely require a nuanced approach to navigate these dual pressures.