The fast fashion industry, known for its rapid production of inexpensive garments, has significantly contributed to the rise in textile waste, posing serious environmental threats. The U.S. Government Accountability Office (GAO) has published a comprehensive report, GAO-25-107165, on textile waste and the toll of fast fashion.
The EPA data reveals that textile waste in the U.S. surged by over 50 percent from 2000 to 2018, with 17 million tons generated in 2018 alone. Around 11.3 million tons of this waste ended up in landfills, intensifying environmental pollution and occupying valuable landfill space. It highlights the alarming environmental damage caused by discarded textiles such as apparel, carpets, footwear, and towels.
Environmental Impact of Textile Waste
Textile waste is responsible for significant environmental harm; decomposing these materials in landfills releases harmful greenhouse gases like methane and leach contaminants into the soil and groundwater. The decomposition of textiles in landfills results in harmful chemicals leaching into the environment. The considerable influence of "fast fashion"—rapid production cycles of trendy, low-cost apparel—has exacerbated this problem over the past two decades.
The fast fashion business model, characterized by rapid and low-cost production and inadequate systems for collecting and sorting textiles and nascent recycling technologies, has exacerbated the waste problem. The focus on short-term garment use has led to a significant turnover of clothing, much of which is discarded.
Examples of Discarded Textiles
Key Statistics on Waste and Recycling Rates
The GAO's detailed analysis highlights an alarming increase in textile waste:
- Between 2000 and 2018, the U.S. saw a more than 50% increase in textile waste.
- In 2018, approximately 92 million tonnes of textile waste were produced globally.
- Fast fashion brands, notably Shein, contribute massively by producing 49 billion garments annually, equivalent to six outfits for every individual on the planet.
Despite the burgeoning waste, textile recycling remains notably inadequate:
- The recycling rate for all textiles was a mere 14.7% in 2018.
- Specifically, textiles in clothing and footwear had a recycling rate of just 13%.
- Alarmingly, only 1% of post-consumer textiles are reused to make new clothing.
Federal Actions and Recommendations
The GAO report outlines limited but crucial federal efforts to curb textile waste and enhance textile recycling:
- The U.S. Department of Commerce's National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) conducted a workshop in 2021 focused on reducing textile waste, bringing together various stakeholders from industry, academia, and government.
- In March 2024, the U.S. Department of State facilitated an interagency meeting to discuss extending the lifecycle of textiles.
- The EPA plans to develop a national textile recycling strategy within 5 to 10 years but acknowledges that current efforts are decentralized and nascent.
Recommendations for Enhancing Federal Collaboration
To optimize and scale these efforts, the GAO makes several pivotal recommendations:
- Congress should direct a federal entity or multiple entities to take coordinated action to reduce textile waste and advance recycling.
- Establishing an interagency mechanism involving EPA, NIST, OSTP, NSF, U.S. Departments of State and Energy to foster collaboration on textile circularity, reducing waste, and improving recycling techniques.
- Enhancing coordination practices by clearly defining outcomes and identifying necessary data and resources.
Looking Forward
The GAO report highlights the dire need for comprehensive action to mitigate the environmental consequences of textile waste driven by fast fashion. To address these challenges, federal entities are urged to collaborate on developing more centralized textile collection and sorting systems, investing in advanced recycling technologies, and promoting sustainable fashion practices.
Without significant changes in industry practices and regulatory approaches, the scale of textile waste will continue to impose substantial environmental and societal costs. Such initiatives can mitigate the environmental impacts of textile waste and create a more sustainable future for the fast fashion industry.
