A new investigation conducted by UK-based non-profit Earthsight has revealed that H&M and Zara, two titans of the global fast fashion industry, are indirectly playing a significant role in the environmental degradation of Brazil's Cerrado region.
Earthsight's year-long investigation employed satellite imagery, court documents, and shipping records to track 816,000 tons of cotton exported from these controversial sources to eight manufacturers that supplied H&M and Zara. Among these suppliers were notable firms in Indonesia, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, such as PT Kahatex, Jamuna Group, and Interloop, linking the cotton directly to garments available on the sales floors across the U.S. and Europe.
The Earthsight's 'Fashion Crimes' report meticulously traced cotton certified under the Better Cotton initiative from two major producers, SLC Agrícola and Grupo Horita, directly to the supply chains of H&M and Zara. These producers have been under scrutiny by Brazilian federal and state agencies for allegations of land grabbing and deforestation, with a history of environmental infractions dating back to 2008.
The Cerrado, a biome of immense ecological importance, is a habitat for numerous species and plays a critical role in carbon sequestration, water regulation, and soil fertility. However, its survival is jeopardized by the relentless push for agricultural land, notably for cotton cultivation, which is a key raw material for the fast fashion industry.
This vast tropical savanna, known for its rich biodiversity, faces unprecedented threats due to deforestation and land degradation, primarily driven by agricultural expansion. The crux of the issue lies in the sourcing practices of these fashion behemoths, which have been linked to cotton suppliers embroiled in illegal activities within Brazil.
Investigations have traced the supply chains of H&M and Zara back to Brazilian cotton farms associated with illegal land clearing and deforestation, highlighting a disturbing disregard for environmental and human rights concerns. Fast fashion's business model, characterized by rapid production cycles and low costs, often comes at a significant environmental and ethical cost. The demand for cheap, quickly produced cotton encourages practices prioritizing short-term gains over long-term sustainability, leading to the exploitation of natural resources and adverse impacts on local communities and ecosystems.
Despite various certification schemes and corporate sustainability pledges, the reality reveals a gap between stated commitments and actual practices. The case of H&M and Zara in Brazil exposes the direct links between major fashion brands and environmental degradation. It also challenges the effectiveness of current sustainability certifications and the fashion industry's ability to meet its environmental responsibilities.
As consumers become increasingly aware of their purchases' environmental and social implications, brands like H&M and Zara are under growing pressure to overhaul their supply chains. Moving forward, the fast fashion industry must adopt more responsible sourcing practices that protect ecosystems like the Cerrado, ensure the well-being of local communities, and contribute to the global fight against climate change and biodiversity loss.
