Luxury shoemaker Tod’s became the latest Italian fashion powerhouse embroiled in supply chain controversy, as prosecutors requested the company be placed under judicial administration over serious and systematic labor abuses in its Italian workshops and ties to Chinese-owned factories. The story, first reported by WWD and confirmed by Reuters, highlights deep concerns about hidden exploitation in two seemingly disparate realms, luxury on one side and Chinese workshops on the other, that converge with a singular aim: minimizing expenses and maximizing profits by circumventing legal and labor regulations.
The Core Allegations: Exploitation in the Supply Chain
Labor Abuse Uncovered: Court documents reveal that Tod’s subcontracted parts of its production—specifically the manufacturing of company uniforms and components for its famous leather shoes—to third parties in Milan and the Marche region. These entities further subcontracted to Chinese-owned workshops, where investigators found workers paid little per hour, less than one-third the legal Italian minimum.…
Unethical Working Conditions: Workers reportedly slept in makeshift dorms inside the factories, sometimes working as much as 90 hours a week for wages far below Italian standards.
Many were unregistered or undocumented immigrants, often from China, and some had 150 euros deducted per month for accommodation and 100 euros for food. Broader Pattern: Tod’s is the sixth major luxury label in Italy to face judicial administration or similar supervision.
Other brands targeted by Italian authorities include Loro Piana (LVMH), Valentino, Dior, Armani, and Alviero Martin.
Tod’s Official Response Tod’s, in a statement to Reuters and replicated across several international sources, denied any deliberate wrongdoing: “We can only reiterate that Tod’s complies with current legislation, including labour law, and that constant checks are carried out on the workshops we select and use.” What Is Judicial Administration—and What Happens Next?…
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