Daniel Roseberry Pushes Schiaparelli’s Surrealist Legacy Into Bold Aquatic Territory With Fall Winter 2026 27 Couture Jackets
Daniel Roseberry proves that couture can still shock and seduce in equal measure at SCHIAPARELLI, with his latest Fall/Winter 2026-27 Haute Couture collection pushing the house’s surrealist legacy into new, experimental territory.
The Call of the Void at Paris Couture Week
Opening Paris Haute Couture Week, SCHIAPARELLI’s Fall/Winter 2026-27 show is titled “The Call of the Void,” a collection that explores the psychological space between agony and ecstasy, which Daniel Roseberry describes as “the abyss.” Drawing on Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist roots, he uses this concept to embrace uncertainty, experimentation and the courage to create without a fixed formula.
Roseberry has framed couture at SCHIAPARELLI as an emotional invitation “Stop thinking, it tells you. It’s time to feel. You only have to look up.” and this season pushes that idea further by confronting the viewer with bodies and materials that look both familiar and otherworldly.
Surreal bodies: silicone, latex and sculpted…
paint Where traditional couture leans on silk, satin and wool, Roseberry prioritizes synthetic and unconventional materials: latex, silicone, and pools of paint baked into sheets and sculpted into garments.
In collaboration with specialist makers, silicone emerges as a kind of “second skin”, poured, wrapped and molded with the same care usually reserved for hand-sewn fabrics.
Runway reviews highlight silicone breastplates, tentacled latex jackets, and gowns that pulse with light, with glowing elements peeking through crevices in the material as models walk.
These looks take the human body and present it “like you’ve never seen before: twisted, subverted, contorted into artworks,” giving physical form to the surrealism that has always defined the house. Aquatic dreams and embellished surfaces This season’s surrealism is deeply aquatic…
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